[The temple sits just three miles from the border with India, but the psychological distance is much greater. It is one of the most tense, militarized boundaries in the world, with thousands of troops guarding both sides of razor-wire fences. The countries have fought two wars, and shootings often erupt across the “line of control” that divides the disputed Himalayan territory of Kashmir.]
By Pamela Constable
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Sikh children shout
slogans in front of the Kartarpur Gurdwara Sahib after
a groundbreaking ceremony
for the Kartarpur Corridor on November
28, 2018. (Arif
Ali/AFP/Getty Images)
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KARTARPUR,
Pakistan — Rising above a
placid stretch of rice paddies and wheat fields in southern Punjab province is
a graceful white-domed temple. To followers of the Sikh religion, 21 million of
whom live in next-door India, it is a sacred site where Guru Nanak Devji, a
founder of Sikhism, spent the last decade of his life and was buried after his
death, nearly 550 years ago.
For the past 70 years, though, the site has
remained either shuttered or mostly empty — captive to the historic enmity
stemming from Partition, the process that violently sundered India in 1947 and
created Pakistan as a Muslim homeland.
The temple sits just three miles from the
border with India, but the psychological distance is much greater. It is one of
the most tense, militarized boundaries in the world, with thousands of troops
guarding both sides of razor-wire fences. The countries have fought two wars,
and shootings often erupt across the “line of control” that divides the
disputed Himalayan territory of Kashmir.
Indian Sikh pilgrims who want to visit the
temple on special occasions, such as Guru Nanak’s death anniversary, must
obtain a Pakistani visa, walk across the only official border opening 75 miles
away and travel two hours by bus to reach the isolated temple. Others find it
easier to visit a designated spot on the other side, where they can view it
through binoculars.
But now, the Pakistani government has
announced plans to open a new border crossing directly across from the temple
and build a connecting road scheduled to open in November. It is a modest but
high-profile gesture that officials said they hope will help improve relations
with Pakistan’s Hindu-led, nuclear-armed adversary next door.
The idea sprang from a conversation between
Pakistan’s army chief, Gen. Qamar Javed Bajwa, and an Indian Sikh politician
and former cricket star, Navjot Singh Sidhu, at the inauguration of Pakistan
Prime Minister Imran Khan in August. On Nov. 28, both officials joined Khan at
a groundbreaking ceremony outside the temple, along with foreign ambassadors
and Indian journalists.
Making an emotional plea for rapprochement,
Khan told the crowd that Pakistan’s government, army and political parties “are
all on one page. We want to move forward.” Indian Prime Minister Narendra Modi,
a strong Hindu nationalist, reciprocated in kind. “Did anyone ever think that
the Berlin Wall would fall?” Modi said in a statement. “Maybe with the
blessings of Guru Nanak Devji, this corridor . . . will act as a bridge between
the peoples of the two countries.”
But years of deep-seated animosity soon
intruded on the hopeful moment. India’s foreign minister declined to attend the
ceremony, citing “prior commitments,” and sent two lower-ranking officials who
are Sikhs. The Hindu and Sikh religions have common roots in India, but Sikhs
believe in a single deity, while Hindus worship a variety of human and animal
gods.
Pakistan’s foreign minister accused India of
playing politics with the issue. Modi blamed his internal opposition Congress
party for “letting Kartarpur go” in 1947 and cutting off the temple from India.
Khan complained that the Indian media had disparaged his gesture as a stunt.
Despite the high-level wrangling, many
Pakistanis expressed strong support for the border opening here, saying they
hoped it could ease the long-standing tensions that have kept two neighboring
armies on alert and the specter of nuclear war hanging over the region.
Members of Pakistan’s small Sikh community,
which numbered several million before Partition but has now dwindled to about
30,000, were especially excited. Many said they visit the temple at least once
a year, and explained that it holds a strong place in their emotions and
beliefs.
“It takes me to another world. I feel a
calmness there like nowhere else,” said Sarbir Singh, 41, who owns a bridal
shop at a crowded bazaar in Rawalpindi city. “All of us want both countries to
be at peace and their people to mingle,” he said. “This is a first step, and
God willing it will lead to more.”
The lane to the temple in Kartarpur, off a
bumpy farm road, is marked with a sign in English, Urdu and Hindi Sanskrit. The
grounds are surrounded by sugar cane fields, and the border is just over the horizon,
with bulldozers at work to build the new road.
On Wednesday, a small stream of visitors
arrived to tour the site, a walled compound that was built in 1921. Inside are
neatly tended gardens, pristine tiled pavilions, and a carved white building
containing vividly decorated chambers for praying and reading from Sikhism’s
holy book, the guru granth.
Most of the visitors were Pakistani Muslims,
who said they had come partly out of curiosity, and partly to pay their
respects. Saima Afzal, 34, drove from Lahore in a minivan with her children and
other relatives.
“We have heard since childhood about this
guru, that he was a great thinker who cared about humanity,” Afzal said. “We
are Muslims but we respect him. We want to see more trade with India, and more
understanding. When people meet, they start to know each other.”
The temple is managed by a Pakistani Sikh,
Govind Singh. A fountain of information on Sikh history, he has lived in the
temple compound since 2000, when the site was reopened after being shuttered
since 1947.
Singh said that all previous Pakistani
governments had respected the Sikh religion, and that Pakistanis had never
shown the ill-will to Sikhs that historically tarred their relations with
Hindus. But even since the temple reopened, he said, only about 15,000 Sikhs a
year have managed to come from abroad, including about 4,000 from India,
because it was so difficult to reach.
Now, Singh said, “Sikhs all over the world
are full of happiness. We pray that the bridge to Kartarpur will bring them all
here.”
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