[About two dozen neighbors
who had been digging with their hands through nearby piles of bricks and stone
and wood paused. Farmers who had been ferrying haystack after haystack on their
backs, up and down the hills, stopped working to join a 30-minute funeral
procession. They carried the man’s makeshift wooden coffin up the mountain to a
small cemetery of stone tombs above the village where they burned incense,
scattered flowers, said prayers and rested from the digging.]
By Daniel Berehulak
A mother was consoled
Tuesday at her son’s funeral in Barpak, Nepal, where assessing damage
has been difficult.
Credit Daniel Berehulak for The New York Times
|
BARPAK, Nepal — This article is by Daniel
Berehulak, as told to Jeffrey Marcus.
In this village high
above a picturesque valley that lies at the epicenter of the earthquake that
flattened much of the country, residents are still finding bodies.
On Tuesday they found
that of a 22-year-old man who was getting his hair cut at the village barber
shop on April 25 when the mountain shook uncontrollably. He was still sitting
upright more than a week later when Nepali soldiers pulled his body from a pile
of heavy rubble and put it in a plastic body bag while his father looked on.
The wails of his bereaved
mother echoed up and down the mountain. Her neighbors tried to comfort her,
knowing there would likely be more sons — and fathers, mothers and daughters —
found in the coming days.
I met the soldiers when I
arrived here by helicopter Tuesday, having hitched a ride from Pokhara with the
Indian military on one of its aid runs. The only other way to get to Barpak,
100 miles northwest of the capital, Kathmandu, is to hike for six hours up a
narrow mountain trail popular among visiting trekkers, but now rendered mostly
inaccessible by fallen rocks and made more dangerous by persistent aftershocks.
I quickly learned how to
tell when a new tremor was coming: All of the dogs in the village started
barking. Then the earth shook.
When the tremors allow
for it, the few dozen soldiers here help villagers dig out bodies when they are
discovered. It took them almost two hours Tuesday to free the young man frozen
upright. The soldiers covered the man’s head with a white cloth while they
worked.
But in remote villages
like Barpak many are still missing, and the extent of the damage in areas
difficult to reach in the best of times remains unknown.
Here in Barpak, a rich
agricultural life built on a mountainside plateau has been erased. About 1,200
of the village’s 1,450 buildings are gone or so severely damaged that they
might as well be.
The Indian military has provided
support to about 60 Nepalese soldiers, coordinating aid from a temporary
command post here. They have transported emergency food aid —
60-pound bags of rice, beans and dry goods — by helicopter, but it is barely
enough, residents here say. And there is no way to get heavy machinery or
construction materials here to provide safe temporary shelter, not to mention
to begin rebuilding.
Some families have
salvaged corrugated metal sheets from the rooftops to build temporary shelters.
They drape the blue and orange plastic sheets dropped by the Nepalese and
Indian armies to create tents. The colors of the tarpaulins signal to the air
forces overhead that the village has received its allotted aid — for now.
I accompanied the
villagers up the mountainside, through the late afternoon chill, as they buried
the body of the man at the barbershop.
As the sun began to set
behind a mountain on the western side of the valley, the villagers escorted the
grieving mother down the hillside trail to the village, where we would all
spend the night in tents.
Villagers are afraid to
stay in the few buildings that still stand; when the dogs start barking and the
earth starts shaking, they, too, can come crashing down.
Daniel Berehulak won the
2015 Pulitzer Prize for feature photography for his work covering the Ebola
crisis in Africa. Jeffrey Marcus reports from New York.