[When
the United Nations adopted tougher sanctions against North Korea this month to punish it for its nuclear
weapons program, it was understood that they would have little effect without
strong cooperation from China , North Korea ’s largest trading partner.]
By Jane Perlez and Yufan Huang
“They
always want the wires to the car radio cut so the North Koreans can’t listen to
the Chinese programs,” he said.
Then,
as he does on many mornings, he drives the car over a single-lane iron bridge
across the border, where there is steady demand for secondhand taxis.
When
the United Nations adopted tougher sanctions against North Korea this month to punish it for its nuclear
weapons program, it was understood that they would have little effect without
strong cooperation from China , North Korea ’s largest trading partner.
If
recent trade here is any indication, that cooperation has been spotty at best.
Cross-border
trade, legal and illegal, flows pretty much as usual, and seems to be largely
unhindered by the new rules, traders and local officials said.
One
of the toughest components, a requirement that countries inspect all cargo
entering or leaving North Korea for banned goods, is not enforced here.
On
many days, Mr. Qin’s secondhand taxis cross the bridge in a convoy of more than
100 vehicles, including trucks loaded with containers draped in shabby
tarpaulins and secondhand minibuses for North Korea’s rickety transportation
system. Few are ever inspected by the Chinese authorities.
Virtually
everything that keeps the North Korean economy afloat passes through here: Coal
and iron ore come in, violating the sanctions, and crude oil flows out, exempted
from them.
Smuggling
is rampant. The export of North Korean rare earth minerals and gold, banned
under the new rule, is one of the more lucrative revenue sources for the North
Korean government, traders said. That business continues on privately owned 200-ton
ships belonging to Chinese smugglers based here, they said.
The
United Nations rules put the onus on customs inspectors here to judge which
goods may help the nuclear program or the military, which are banned, and which
are intended for civilians, which are allowed.
On
a recent day, the customs checkpoint, a large outdoor parking area adjacent to
the bridge, held a collection of China ’s castoffs: cheap four-wheel-drive Haval
passenger vehicles, discount medicines for hepatitis and tuberculosis, old
solar panels to brighten dark houses.
But
the customs office here lacks the staff to open all the containers, a local
government official said. Like most people interviewed for this article, he
spoke on condition of anonymity since there are risks to speaking candidly to
foreign media about trade with North Korea .
At
peak times, up to 200 trucks a day cross the Yalu River to Sinuiju , North Korea . Before departing, only about 5 percent of
the containers they carry are inspected, the official said.
But
if China is exasperated with the North Korean leader,
Kim Jong-un, it is even more worried about political instability, and the
possibility that economic deprivation could send millions of North Koreans
fleeing into China .
So
China insisted on an exemption stipulating that
the “livelihood” of ordinary North Koreans must not suffer, a loophole that
sanctions experts say is big enough to drive an 18-wheeler through.
That
exemption left the oil pipeline from Dandong to North Korea open, but seems to have been applied to a
wide variety of merchandise.
One
salesroom here boasted a brisk business in secondhand Japanese pianos, selling
for $1,500 to $8,000 for fastidious, well-off North Koreans who sneer at the
sound of Chinese instruments. North Koreans like Yamaha pianos, a salesman said.
Smuggling
along the nearly 900-mile border, perfected through methods ranging from
tucking wads of cash into truck drivers’ seats to operating small boats in the
dead of night, is winked at for the same reason.
“We
don’t want the North Korean regime to collapse,” explained Mr. Wang, a
government official.
Demand
has fallen for some items, traders said, but that was more a function of North Korea ’s increasingly feeble economy and a lack of
cash, than the sanctions.
There
is, however, evidence of some enforcement in one important area: North Korea ’s sale of coal and iron ore, two of its most
important exports.
Port
authorities here have been fairly vigilant in enforcing the new ban on North Korea ’s ragged fleet of more than two dozen cargo
ships, two local officials said. The coal they carry earns North Korea as much as $1 billion a year, according to
the United States Treasury.
But
that ban has been circumvented by smuggling ships and by the transfer of 12
North Korean ships to Chinese ownership, allowing them to dock at Chinese and
other ports, a longtime trader, Mr. Yu, said.
A
few traders interviewed here said the new rules had crimped their business.
Mr.
Zhang, a trader who does tens of millions of dollars a year in business with North Korea , said customs officials had just impounded a
big secondhand excavator he had bought from a coal mine in Shanxi Province and sold to a North Korean coal mine for
more than $60,000.
Customs
inspectors asked how he knew the equipment would not be transferred to the
North Korean military. “We didn’t know how to answer,” he said.
But
traders and officials expect that after some initial minor squeezing, whatever
enforcement there is will be relaxed. Liaoning Province , where Dandong is a prominent city, ranked at the bottom of
China ’s 31 provinces for economic growth last year,
and there was political pressure not to weaken the economy further.
“Whenever
there are provocations, the traders say that the higher-ups call for
enforcement, and then a few months later there is no systematic implementation,”
said Andrea Berger, a proliferation expert at the Royal United Services
Institute in London .
For
many of the Chinese businessmen here, deals with North Korea still offer a chance to make good money, both
quickly and quietly. Their offices are tucked away in a grubby complex of two-story
buildings near the waterfront.
On
the street, North Korean men are ubiquitous, walking in pairs or in groups —
never alone — and wearing severe black jackets and pants, the signature uniform
of government officials. They are North Korean trade officials who were sent to
Dandong as purchasing agents, and whose jobs were
largely untouched by the new United Nations restrictions.
Their
presence has created tensions with the Chinese, many of whom regard their needy
neighbors with contempt.
Just
as the new sanctions were imposed, a new North Korean trader came to work at Mr.
Zhang’s company, where he would earn kickbacks on each purchase and then pay
some of that money to his government, Mr. Zhang said.
The
trader expected to be treated to a plush apartment for him and his family, schooling
for his son, an imported car, and a loan of more than $50,000, Mr. Zhang
complained. “How they spend money is way too extravagant,” he said.
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Jane Perlez on Twitter @JanePerlez.