April 27, 2015

VILLAGES NEAR NEPAL EARTHQUAKE’S EPICENTER ARE DESPERATE AS DEATH TOLL TOPS 3,800

[A day after Nepal’s worst earthquake in 80 years, the official death toll had risen to more than 3,800, and humanitarian aid was starting to flow to the capital. Katmandu’s airport had been so overloaded by aid and passenger planes that incoming flights sat for hours on the runway. Nepali expatriates were flying in, desperate to track down family members, and setting off down the airport access road on foot, rolling suitcases behind them.]
Navesh Chitrakar/Reuters
SAURPANI, Nepal — Five hours by car from Katmandu, then by foot for several miles past the spot where the road is blocked by boulders and mud, people from the villages near the epicenter of Nepal’s powerful earthquake are burying their dead, despairing of help arriving anytime soon.
On Monday afternoon, Parbati Dhakal and several dozen of her neighbors walked two hours down a jungle path, carrying 11 bodies attached to bamboo poles. They stopped at a riverbank where they lowered the dead into holes.
One of the villagers pointed to the people gathered there and identified them, one by one: “Father just buried; mother just buried; sister just buried.”
Back in Saurpani, an ethnic Gurkha village at the epicenter of Saturday’s quake, Ms. Dhakal said, “we have no shelter, no food and all the bodies are scattered around.”
A day after Nepal’s worst earthquake in 80 years, the official death toll had risen to more than 3,800, and humanitarian aid was starting to flow to the capital. Katmandu’s airport had been so overloaded by aid and passenger planes that incoming flights sat for hours on the runway. Nepali expatriates were flying in, desperate to track down family members, and setting off down the airport access road on foot, rolling suitcases behind them.
But outside the capital, many of the worst-hit villages in the ridges around Katmandu remain a black hole, surrounded by landslides that make them inaccessible even to the country’s armed forces. Nepali authorities on Monday began airdropping packages of tarpaulins, dry food and medicine into mountain villages, but an attempt to land helicopters was abandoned, said Brigadier General Jagadish Chandra Pokharel, an army spokesman.
The government is only gradually getting a grasp of the destruction in these isolated places. It is nearly impossible to identify which villages are most in need, and how many may be dead or injured, said Jeffrey Shannon, director of programs for Mercy Corps in Nepal.
“Right now, what we’re hearing from everybody, including our own staff, is that we don’t know,” he said. “As people start to travel these roads, to reach these communities, you run into landslides. They’re simply inaccessible, the ones that need the most help.”
The chief bureaucrat in Gorkha district, Uddhav Timilsina, said rescue crews were unable even to distribute relief, because they are confronting as many as eight to 10 landslides between one village and its nearest neighbor. He said 250 deaths had been reported so far, but that it would take more time to get an accurate count.
“Phone lines are down, electricity is out, roads are blocked, so what can we do?” he said.
In interviews, residents of hard-hit villages said their plight had not been in the foreground during the early days of the crisis. Prakash Dhakal, a native of the village of Saurpani, was in Katmandu when the earthquake struck, and visited a government office on Sunday to plead with an official to send help.
“I asked them to send 25 young people to help bury our dead and search for the injured,” Mr. Dhakal said. “They told me, ‘We can’t even rescue the injured in Katmandu. How do you expect us to do anything for you now?’  
Around 90 percent of Nepal’s troops, which number 90,000, have been mobilized for disaster relief since Sunday, according to Gen. Pokharel. Most of that force has been concentrated in Katmandu, though, and the army had only 12 operational helicopters available at the time of the disaster. India has since donated six more.
Some 650 injured have been evacuated from villages to Katmandu, he said. He added that most of the injured had been trapped in building collapses, and suffered head injuries and broken limbs.
“We are trying to use our aviation assets so we would recover them alive,” he said.
In the past, Nepal’s government has made some attempt to consolidate thousands of tiny villages that dot its mountain ridges, some of them more than a day’s hike from the nearest road.
But though the road system has expanded rapidly, attempts to attract mountain villagers to cities and towns where they could receive government services have mostly failed, Mr. Shannon said, perhaps because they lack the money to buy land elsewhere.
The upshot, he said, is a population so cut off from the central government that most do not have Nepali citizenship cards.
“All these people, they are just invisible,” he said.
The residents of Saurpani, as they made their way down to the banks of the Daraudi River with the bodies of their relatives, described a landscape of destruction. There had been 1,300 houses in Saurpani, but one resident, Shankar Thapa, said, “all the houses collapsed.”
Villagers said luck seemed to determine who lived and who died. Nar Bahadur Nepali, a 37-year-old farmer, said most of the structures in his village had collapsed, including his house.
“We survived because there was a wedding in the village, and we were out in an open area,” he said. At least 60 or 70 more people would have died had it not been for the wedding, he said.
The earthquake that hit on Saturday, shortly before noon, had a magnitude of 7.8, and early reports suggest that those villages that were damaged were nearly obliterated.
Sumzah Lama, who is from a village near the Tibetan border, was nursing her young daughter when the quake hit. Her pelvis was fractured on both sides, and she said she believed that her husband and three other daughters all died in the earthquake.
“The hills all came down,” she said, from a hospital bed in Katmandu.
Dawa Janba, who lives around two days’ walk from his home village of Langtang, in the same region, said he looked down from a helicopter on Sunday as he was being medically evacuated to Katmandu, and saw that “the whole valley has been destroyed.”
“The slides of snow and rocks covered everything,” he said, adding that it seemed unlikely that more than a few of the 600 residents of Langtang would have survived.
“There is nothing left to go back to, everything is destroyed,” said his wife, Karchon Tamang. “Everything was moving and smashed apart.”
Along the hills and valleys at the epicenter on Monday, relatives were making their way back home from Katmandu, where they had been working when the earthquake struck.
Dulbahadur Gurung, 27, walked two hours from where the bus dropped him off and was planning to walk another three hours to reach his village, Ranchok. Fifteen bodies had been recovered there, so far. Before the quake there were around 150 houses.
“They told me there’s nothing left,” he said.

Hari Kumar contributed reporting from New Delhi, Poypiti Amatatham from Bangkok and Christopher Buckley from Katmandu. Ms. Barry reported from Katmandu.